Category: Safety

How Does an Electric Car Perform in 100°F Heat?

July 14, 2026 / Truth Driver

Short answer: Better than most people think.

While extremely hot weather can reduce driving range slightly, today’s electric vehicles are designed to operate safely in triple-digit temperatures. In many cases, your EV will automatically protect itself long before heat becomes a problem.

Here’s what to expect when temperatures climb into the 90s and 100s.

1. Your battery is actively cooled.

Unlike many early EVs, most modern electric vehicles use liquid cooling systems to regulate battery temperature.

If the battery gets hot, the cooling system circulates coolant to help keep it within its preferred operating range.

You probably won’t notice anything happening—your car is simply doing its job.

Example: My Volkswagen ID.4 occasionally runs cooling fans after parking or while charging on very hot days. That’s completely normal.

2. Expect a small drop in range.

Heat itself isn’t usually the biggest problem.

Air conditioning is.

Running the A/C continuously takes energy, just like heating does in winter.

Typical summer range loss is often around 5–10%, though it varies depending on:

Outside temperature
Driving speed
Cabin temperature setting
Sun exposure
Battery conditioning

Even in 100°F weather, most drivers won’t notice a dramatic reduction.

3. The cooling fans may keep running after you park.

This surprises many first-time EV owners.

You park…

Walk away…

Then hear fans still running.

That’s often the battery cooling itself.

It’s perfectly normal.

4. Fast charging may take a little longer.

DC fast charging creates additional heat.

If your battery is already hot after a long highway drive, your vehicle may slightly reduce charging speed to protect the battery.

This isn’t a defect.

It’s your battery management system maximizing long-term battery health.

5. Should you leave your EV plugged in?

Generally…

Yes, if you’re using a Level 1 or Level 2 home charger.

Many manufacturers recommend leaving the vehicle plugged in when parked for extended periods because the car can:

Maintain the battery
Run cooling systems if necessary
Precondition before departure

If you normally charge to 80%, simply leave your charging limit set there.

6. Avoid charging to 100% every day.

High temperatures and sitting at a full charge for extended periods aren’t ideal for lithium-ion batteries.

For everyday driving:

Charge to around 80%
Save 100% for road trips or when you truly need the extra range

7. Cabin preconditioning is your friend.

One of the biggest advantages of an EV is cooling the cabin before you leave.

If the vehicle is plugged in, much of the energy used to cool the cabin comes from the charger instead of the battery.

That means:

A more comfortable cabin
Better starting range
Less work for the battery once you begin driving

8. Heat is easier on EVs than extreme cold.

Cold weather has a much greater impact on EV range than hot weather.

While triple-digit temperatures may reduce range slightly, freezing temperatures often have a much larger effect because batteries are less efficient when cold and the cabin heater requires significant energy.

Final thoughts

If it’s 100°F outside, your EV is probably less concerned than you are.

Modern electric vehicles continuously monitor battery temperature and automatically manage cooling to protect the battery and maintain performance.

You may hear fans running, notice slightly slower fast charging, or lose a small amount of driving range—but these are all expected behaviors, not signs that something is wro

than staged marketing shots.

How Long Can an Electric Vehicle Sit Without Being Driven?

July 8, 2026 / Truth Driver

The short answer

Most modern EVs can safely sit for several weeks or even a few months without being driven, provided the battery isn’t left completely full or nearly empty.

Unlike gasoline vehicles, EVs don’t have engine oil circulating through an engine, fuel degrading in injectors, or dozens of moving parts that need regular operation.

Ironically, many EVs tolerate sitting better than gasoline vehicles.

What actually happens while an EV sits?

People imagine the battery is constantly draining. It does—but usually much slower than expected.

The car uses a small amount of energy for things like:

battery monitoring
security systems
cellular connection
remote app connectivity
thermal management (on some models)

Many owners report losing only 1–3% per week, while others see even less. Temperature and vehicle model make a noticeable difference.

Ideal battery charge for storage

This is probably the most important tip.

For storage lasting more than a week or two:

Around 50–60% is ideal.
Anywhere from 40–70% is perfectly reasonable.
Avoid leaving the battery at 100% for extended periods.
Avoid leaving it below 20%, especially if you’re unsure when you’ll drive it again.

Think of lithium-ion batteries like people—they’re happiest somewhere in the middle, not at either extreme.

Should you leave it plugged in?

Usually yes.

If your vehicle allows you to set a charge limit (many do), set it around 60–80% and leave it plugged into a Level 1 or Level 2 charger.

The car can maintain itself without keeping the battery at 100%.

If you don’t have home charging, parking it around 50–60% for several weeks is generally fine.

Cold weather storage

Winter changes things.

Very cold temperatures reduce available battery capacity temporarily, but they don’t necessarily damage the battery.

If the vehicle will sit outside during freezing weather:

Don’t leave it nearly empty.
Around 50–70% is a comfortable range.
If possible, leave it plugged in so the battery management system can protect the pack.

Hot weather storage

Extreme heat is harder on lithium-ion batteries than cold.

If parking outside for weeks during summer:

Avoid leaving the battery at 100%.
Park in shade if possible.
Keep the battery somewhere around the middle of its charge range.

How does this compare to a gasoline vehicle?

Here’s where things get interesting.

EV	Gas vehicle
No engine oil circulation concerns	Oil drains off engine components over time
No fuel degradation	Gasoline slowly degrades
No fuel injectors to gum up	Fuel system can varnish during long storage
No exhaust moisture concerns	Short trips and storage can encourage condensation
Very little routine maintenance	More fluids and mechanical systems

However…

Both have a traditional 12-volt battery.

That battery is often what causes trouble first—not the EV battery.

If either vehicle sits for months, a battery maintainer can be a worthwhile investment.

If your EV is your “good weather” car

Many people own an EV alongside an SUV or truck used for:

snow
towing
hunting
camping
severe winter weather

That’s perfectly reasonable.

A simple routine might look like this:

Drive the EV once every couple of weeks.
Let regenerative braking and normal driving cycle the battery.
Recharge back to your preferred storage level.

No special rituals required.

Bottom line

If you won’t be driving your EV for a while:

Store it around 50–60% charge.
Avoid 100% for long periods.
Avoid leaving it nearly empty.
Plug it in if practical and use a reasonable charge limit.
Drive it occasionally if storage stretches into months.

Compared with a similar gasoline vehicle, an EV often requires less attention during storage because there are simply fewer mechanical systems affected by sitting still.

Can Any Mechanic Work on an Electric Vehicle?

July 6, 2026 / rosserla06

One of the biggest misconceptions about electric vehicles is that they require a dealership for every repair. In reality, many of the maintenance items on an EV are very similar to a gasoline-powered vehicle.

Here’s a quick breakdown.

Repairs Most Independent Shops Can Handle

Most suspension, steering, tire, and brake work doesn’t change simply because the car is electric.

A qualified independent repair shop can typically perform services such as:

Tire replacement and balancing
Wheel alignments
Brake pad and rotor replacement
Brake fluid flushes
Ball joints
Tie rods
Wheel bearings
Control arms
Struts and shocks
Suspension bushings

These components function much like they do on conventional vehicles, and many experienced repair shops are already familiar with servicing them.

One interesting difference is that EV brake pads often last significantly longer thanks to regenerative braking. Because the electric motor helps slow the vehicle, the traditional friction brakes simply don’t get used as often.

Repairs That Usually Require EV Training

Where electric vehicles become more specialized is anything involving the high-voltage electrical system.

These repairs are generally best left to a dealership or an independent shop with EV certification and proper safety equipment.

Examples include:

High-voltage battery pack repairs
Battery cooling systems
Inverters
Onboard chargers
High-voltage wiring
Drive motors
Battery management system diagnostics

These components operate at voltages that require specialized training and insulated tools.

The Bottom Line

Owning an electric vehicle doesn’t mean every repair has to be done at the dealership.

For tires, brakes, suspension, steering, and many routine maintenance items, a trusted independent repair shop can often handle the work just as they would on a gasoline-powered vehicle.

The dealership—or a qualified EV specialist—becomes much more important when the repair involves the vehicle’s high-voltage electrical system.

As electric vehicles become more common, more independent repair facilities are investing in EV training. That means owners will likely have even more service options in the years ahead.

What Happens If You Lose Your EV Key Fob While Driving?

July 6, 2026 / rosserla06

One thing I recently learned the hard way with my 2023 Volkswagen ID.4 Pro S is that your EV will continue driving even if the key fob is no longer in the vehicle.

Here’s what happened.

While loading my daughter into the car, I accidentally set the key fob on the roof and forgot about it. We drove away as normal. Somewhere along the drive, the key fell off the vehicle.

The ID.4 kept driving without any major warning that the key was gone.

The real problem came after I reached my destination.

Once I shut the vehicle off, it would not restart because there was no authorized key present.

At that point, there wasn’t much I could do.

I had to call an Uber, ride home, grab my spare key, and then return to the vehicle.

Ironically, my spare key’s battery had died, so that wasn’t much help either.

Fortunately, an incredibly kind Uber driver agreed to retrace my route. Against all odds, we found my original key fob lying in the road after it had apparently been run over by traffic.

Believe it or not, it still worked well enough to get us home.

Lessons Learned

If you drive an EV—or really, any modern push-button-start vehicle—it’s worth remembering a few things:

Your vehicle may continue driving even after the key leaves the vehicle.
Once you turn the car off, you may not be able to restart it without another working key.
Carrying a spare key (or at least making sure your spare has a fresh battery) is more important than many people realize.
Before driving away, take one last glance to make sure your key isn’t sitting on the roof.

Final Thoughts

In today’s world of smart keys and connected vehicles, I was surprised there wasn’t a better recovery option once the fob was gone.

Thankfully, this happened in Michigan—not somewhere remote or in extreme heat. I also had help from an Uber driver who went above and beyond to help us recover the key.

If you own an EV, learn from my mistake. It only takes a few seconds to double-check that your key is actually in your pocket before you pull away.

What to Do If Your EV Isn’t Rated for Towing (Like Mine)

June 23, 2025 / Truth Driver

So, you just bought an EV and realized it’s not rated for towing in your market. Don’t worry—you’re not alone. My RWD Volkswagen ID.4 falls into that exact category in the U.S., even though similar models elsewhere are tow-capable. So what can you do?

First: Understand Why It’s Not Rated

Manufacturers may not certify a vehicle for towing in certain countries due to:

Liability concerns
Regulatory differences
Suspension or cooling system limitations
Marketing priorities (some U.S. models skip towing to focus on range)

Second: Don’t Panic—Here Are Your Options

✔️ Option 1: Use a Hitch for Accessories Only
- Most “unrated” EVs can safely handle a Class 1 or 2 hitch for bike racks or cargo trays.
- Be sure the hitch is frame-mounted and installed professionally.

⚠️Option 2: Light, Unofficial Towing (Not Recommended)
- Some folks use aftermarket hitches for ultra-light trailers (e.g., small utility carts).
- But: this can void your warranty, and most EV braking and regen systems aren’t optimized for towing.
- Proceed at your own risk, and know that resale value or dealer service could be impacted.
⛔ Option 3: Don’t Tow
- If you can’t risk it, don’t. That’s the most manufacturer-safe move.
- Look into rental trucks or vans for occasional hauls, or consider a second tow-rated vehicle.
- If you haven’t purchased one yet, look into our list of towing-safe EVs.

Third: Look into International Models

Sometimes, the same EV is rated for towing in Europe or Canada. That tells you:

The platform can handle it.
You might be able to add hardware down the road if you’re savvy (but again, warranty risk).
It gives hope that future U.S. models may get updates.

Final Takeaway

Just because your EV isn’t “tow-rated” doesn’t mean it’s useless-it just means it wasn’t marketed or certified that way in the US. Use your vehicle within spec, explore alternatives, and advocate for more transparency in U.S. EV specs.

EVs That Are Good for Towing

June 23, 2025 / Truth Driver

Not all EVs are created equal when it comes to towing — and some manufacturers restrict tow ratings by market. For example, the Volkswagen ID.4 is rated for up to 2,700 lbs in Europe but has no tow rating in the U.S. due to legal and insurance liabilities.

If you’re buying in the U.S. (Or wherever), always double-check the official owner’s manual and build specs. Even when the vehicle is physically capable, the tow rating may be absent due to market-specific testing, certification, or warranty coverage. When in doubt, don’t assume your EV can tow — especially in North America.

✅ Top EVs for Towing

Rivian R1T: 11,000 lbs (Leading the pack for serious towing)
Ford F-150 Lightning: Up to 10,000 lbs (Extended Range + Max Tow Package essential)
Chevrolet Silverado EV: 10,000 lbs (WT model; note on future higher ratings for specific trims)
Tesla Cybertruck AWD: 11,000 lbs (Leverages advanced software for stability)
GMC Hummer EV Pickup/SUV: ~7,500 lbs (A brute with substantial pulling power)
Rivian R1S: 7,700 lbs (Excellent family SUV with strong towing for trailers)
Tesla Model X: 5,000 lbs (A long-standing capable EV for moderate towing)
Kia EV9 AWD: Up to 5,000 lbs (Strong contender in the 3-row SUV segment)
Volvo EX90: ~4,850 lbs (New luxury 3-row with solid towing)
Audi Q8 e-tron / SQ8 e-tron: 4,000 – 4,400 lbs (Premium SUV with good capability)
BMW iX M60: 5,500 lbs (Luxury and capability, check regional specs)
Tesla Model Y (AWD with tow package): 3,500 lbs (Popular choice for lighter towing needs)
Genesis Electrified GV70: 3,500 lbs (Luxury option with decent capacity)
Volkswagen ID.4 AWD: 2,700 lbs (A widely available option for lighter loads)
Hyundai Ioniq 5 AWD / Kia EV6 AWD: 2,300 lbs (Surprisingly capable for their size, for lighter trailers)
Mercedes-Benz EQS SUV: Up to 4,000 lbs (Luxury SUV with moderate towing)

🚫 10 EVs Not Recommended for Towing

Chevrolet Bolt EV/EUV: No official tow rating.
Nissan Leaf: No official U.S. tow rating (very light duty in Europe).
Hyundai Kona EV: No official U.S. tow rating (light duty in Europe).
Mazda MX-30: No tow rating, very limited range.
Mini Cooper SE: Designed for city driving, no towing.
Fiat 500e: No structural support for towing.
Tesla Model 3 RWD/AWD (without specific tow package/region): Generally not factory-rated for towing in the U.S. (unlike Model Y).
Lucid Air: High-performance luxury sedan, not designed for towing.
Toyota bZ4X (and Subaru Solterra): Minimal or no official towing, not marketed for it.
VinFast VF8: Limited data and stability concerns under load make it questionable for towing.
Any small, economy-focused EV not explicitly listed with a tow rating: Most will simply not be designed or rated for towing.

General Considerations for EV Towing:

It’s important to remember a few key things about towing with EVs:

Range Reduction: Towing significantly reduces an EV’s range. This is a crucial point that can’t be overstated. Heavier loads and aerodynamic drag from trailers mean you’ll be stopping to charge much more frequently.
Charging Infrastructure: Not all charging stations are tow-friendly (e.g., pull-through spots are limited). This requires extra planning for longer towing trips.
Instant Torque: EVs excel at towing due to their instant torque, making for very smooth acceleration even with heavy loads.
Regenerative Braking: While helpful for efficiency, some EVs might have limitations or require specific settings when using regenerative braking with a heavy towed load to prevent overheating or damage.

Please remember to check the specific owner’s manual and trim levels for your desired vehicle for the most accurate and up-to-date towing information.

Sources

Stuck Charger? Here’s How We Freed a Lyriq at Electrify America

June 16, 2025 / Truth Driver

Today I ended up helping a fellow EV driver at an Electrify America station — and it turned into a great reminder of how fast things can go sideways when tech meets real life.

The car? A 2025 Cadillac Lyriq.
Beautiful ride. But the charger? Stuck. Locked in place. Wouldn’t release.

She had already called support and was waiting on them to do… something. Meanwhile, it just sat there – the cord locked tight. I could see she was flustered, so I stepped in to help, along with another woman nearby.

After a few minutes of going through the basics, I remembered something I’d read (shoutout to ChatGPT for helping me think through it earlier): there’s an emergency release latch near the charging port.

Sure enough — we guided her to pull it, and it worked. Charger released, crisis averted.

💡 What Actually Happened?

It looked like a weird combination of a software bug and hardware lockout.
The car might have been idling-charging or in a weird post-charge state, and the cord locked up as a safety measure.
Classic EV moment: high tech meets low control.

✅ What to Do If This Happens to You

Step 1: Don’t panic.
Take a breath. EVs are safety-first, so the system might just need a second to reset or finish communicating.

Step 2: Check the basics.

Is the car still actively charging?
Does the dash say “charging complete” or “ready to unplug”?
Is the cord locked visually, or just resisting?

Step 3: Try the official method first.

Use the vehicle’s unlock button or app
Wait 30–60 seconds after charging completes

Step 4: Call support (Electrify America, Tesla, etc.)

Start a ticket. But don’t wait forever – tech support can lag.

Step 5: Use the emergency release

Most EVs (including the Lyriq) have a manual latch or pull tab inside or near the charging port.
It might be behind a panel or rubber flap — check the manual or look it up on your phone.

Why Does My EV Slam on the Brakes in Reverse?

June 12, 2025 / Truth Driver

Ever had your EV slam on the brakes when you’re backing up — even though nothing is behind you?

It’s happened to me a few times in my Volkswagen ID.4, and it always catches me off guard. No beeping, no warning, just… stop. Like the car thinks it’s about to save someone’s life. Only problem is – there’s nothing there.

So what’s actually going on?

What Causes Sudden Stops in Reverse?

Here’s what I’ve found, both from experience and digging deeper:

1. Reverse Automatic Braking (AEB)
Most modern EVs – including the ID.4 – come with rear automatic emergency braking. It’s designed to stop the car if it thinks you’re about to back into something.

But the problem?
It doesn’t always see clearly.

2. Dirty Camera or Sensors
I personally think this is my main issue.
Dust, water spots, or even spiderwebs on your backup camera or ultrasonic sensors can make the system think there’s an obstacle, even when there isn’t.

💡 Here’s a tip: Try wiping your backup camera lens with a microfiber cloth. It makes a difference.

3. Sun Glare or Shadows
Bright sun behind you?
Deep shadows under your bumper?
Those can mess with how the car’s sensors or camera interpret the environment, especially if you’re in a garage or parking between two tall vehicles.

4. False Positives from Cross-Traffic Detection
Some trims use radar or wide-angle cameras to detect cross-traffic when reversing. It’s great for parking lots – but it can overreact if it picks up a leaf blowing or a person walking 20 feet away.

⚙️ What You Can Do:

✅ Clean your backup camera and rear sensors
✅ Test by turning off Reverse Brake Assist temporarily (check your settings)
✅ Try reversing more slowly and listen for alerts before it brakes
✅ Log when and where it happens — see if there’s a pattern

Final Thought:

I’m all for safety features — especially on a quiet EV. But sometimes, it feels like my car’s got a nervous ghost in the back seat.