Category: General

What to Do If Your EV Isn’t Rated for Towing (Like Mine)

So, you just bought an EV and realized it’s not rated for towing in your market. Don’t worry—you’re not alone. My RWD Volkswagen ID.4 falls into that exact category in the U.S., even though similar models elsewhere are tow-capable. So what can you do?

First: Understand Why It’s Not Rated

Manufacturers may not certify a vehicle for towing in certain countries due to:

  • Liability concerns
  • Regulatory differences
  • Suspension or cooling system limitations
  • Marketing priorities (some U.S. models skip towing to focus on range)

Second: Don’t Panic—Here Are Your Options

  • ✔️ Option 1: Use a Hitch for Accessories Only
    • Most “unrated” EVs can safely handle a Class 1 or 2 hitch for bike racks or cargo trays.
    • Be sure the hitch is frame-mounted and installed professionally.
  • ⚠️Option 2: Light, Unofficial Towing (Not Recommended)
    • Some folks use aftermarket hitches for ultra-light trailers (e.g., small utility carts).
    • But: this can void your warranty, and most EV braking and regen systems aren’t optimized for towing.
    • Proceed at your own risk, and know that resale value or dealer service could be impacted.
  • Option 3: Don’t Tow
    • If you can’t risk it, don’t. That’s the most manufacturer-safe move.
    • Look into rental trucks or vans for occasional hauls, or consider a second tow-rated vehicle.
    • If you haven’t purchased one yet, look into our list of towing-safe EVs.

Third: Look into International Models

Sometimes, the same EV is rated for towing in Europe or Canada. That tells you:

  • The platform can handle it.
  • You might be able to add hardware down the road if you’re savvy (but again, warranty risk).
  • It gives hope that future U.S. models may get updates.

Final Takeaway

Just because your EV isn’t “tow-rated” doesn’t mean it’s useless-it just means it wasn’t marketed or certified that way in the US. Use your vehicle within spec, explore alternatives, and advocate for more transparency in U.S. EV specs.

EVs That Are Good for Towing

Not all EVs are created equal when it comes to towing — and some manufacturers restrict tow ratings by market. For example, the Volkswagen ID.4 is rated for up to 2,700 lbs in Europe but has no tow rating in the U.S. due to legal and insurance liabilities.

If you’re buying in the U.S. (Or wherever), always double-check the official owner’s manual and build specs. Even when the vehicle is physically capable, the tow rating may be absent due to market-specific testing, certification, or warranty coverage. When in doubt, don’t assume your EV can tow — especially in North America.


Top EVs for Towing

  • Rivian R1T: 11,000 lbs (Leading the pack for serious towing)
  • Ford F-150 Lightning: Up to 10,000 lbs (Extended Range + Max Tow Package essential)
  • Chevrolet Silverado EV: 10,000 lbs (WT model; note on future higher ratings for specific trims)
  • Tesla Cybertruck AWD: 11,000 lbs (Leverages advanced software for stability)
  • GMC Hummer EV Pickup/SUV: ~7,500 lbs (A brute with substantial pulling power)
  • Rivian R1S: 7,700 lbs (Excellent family SUV with strong towing for trailers)
  • Tesla Model X: 5,000 lbs (A long-standing capable EV for moderate towing)
  • Kia EV9 AWD: Up to 5,000 lbs (Strong contender in the 3-row SUV segment)
  • Volvo EX90: ~4,850 lbs (New luxury 3-row with solid towing)
  • Audi Q8 e-tron / SQ8 e-tron: 4,000 – 4,400 lbs (Premium SUV with good capability)
  • BMW iX M60: 5,500 lbs (Luxury and capability, check regional specs)
  • Tesla Model Y (AWD with tow package): 3,500 lbs (Popular choice for lighter towing needs)
  • Genesis Electrified GV70: 3,500 lbs (Luxury option with decent capacity)
  • Volkswagen ID.4 AWD: 2,700 lbs (A widely available option for lighter loads)
  • Hyundai Ioniq 5 AWD / Kia EV6 AWD: 2,300 lbs (Surprisingly capable for their size, for lighter trailers)
  • Mercedes-Benz EQS SUV: Up to 4,000 lbs (Luxury SUV with moderate towing)

🚫 10 EVs Not Recommended for Towing

  • Chevrolet Bolt EV/EUV: No official tow rating.
  • Nissan Leaf: No official U.S. tow rating (very light duty in Europe).
  • Hyundai Kona EV: No official U.S. tow rating (light duty in Europe).
  • Mazda MX-30: No tow rating, very limited range.
  • Mini Cooper SE: Designed for city driving, no towing.
  • Fiat 500e: No structural support for towing.
  • Tesla Model 3 RWD/AWD (without specific tow package/region): Generally not factory-rated for towing in the U.S. (unlike Model Y).
  • Lucid Air: High-performance luxury sedan, not designed for towing.
  • Toyota bZ4X (and Subaru Solterra): Minimal or no official towing, not marketed for it.
  • VinFast VF8: Limited data and stability concerns under load make it questionable for towing.
  • Any small, economy-focused EV not explicitly listed with a tow rating: Most will simply not be designed or rated for towing.

General Considerations for EV Towing:

It’s important to remember a few key things about towing with EVs:

  • Range Reduction: Towing significantly reduces an EV’s range. This is a crucial point that can’t be overstated. Heavier loads and aerodynamic drag from trailers mean you’ll be stopping to charge much more frequently.
  • Charging Infrastructure: Not all charging stations are tow-friendly (e.g., pull-through spots are limited). This requires extra planning for longer towing trips.
  • Instant Torque: EVs excel at towing due to their instant torque, making for very smooth acceleration even with heavy loads.
  • Regenerative Braking: While helpful for efficiency, some EVs might have limitations or require specific settings when using regenerative braking with a heavy towed load to prevent overheating or damage.

Please remember to check the specific owner’s manual and trim levels for your desired vehicle for the most accurate and up-to-date towing information.

Sources

  1. go-e: Electric Cars Towing Trailers Guide (2025)
  2. Car and Driver: Rivian R1T (2024)
  3. Cornerstone Ford: F-150 Lightning Towing Capacity
  4. Car and Driver: Silverado EV (2026)
  5. Car and Driver: Rivian R1S (2022)
  6. Car and Driver: BMW iX (2026)
  7. Hyundai Newsroom: Ioniq 5 Overview (2023)
  8. Fowler Kia: EV9 Towing Info
  9. Mercedes-Benz Scottsdale Blog (2025)
  10. Car and Driver: GMC Hummer EV
  11. Edmunds: Audi Q8 e-tron (2024)
  12. Polestar: Polestar 3 Specifications
  13. Genesis Atlanta: GV70 Towing
  14. Fleet EV News: Kona EV Towing
  15. CarsGuide: Mazda MX-30 Towing
  16. TorkLift Central: Mini Cooper SE Trailer Hitch
  17. eTowbars: Fiat 500e Towbar (U.S.)
  18. Lucid Motors: Gravity Essentials

🔥 Driving an EV in 90+ degree heat: What you need to know

If you’ve been sweating it out in your EV lately, you’re not alone. With temperatures hitting 90 degrees and up around the US, it’s natural to wonder:

Is blasting the A/C going to wreck my range?

Should I crack the window instead?

How different is EV heat management compared to gas cars?

Let’s break it down.

Key Considerations When Driving Your EV in the Heat

  • 1. Climate control eats range — but not as much as you’d think
    Unlike ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) cars, EVs don’t “waste” engine heat for cabin comfort. Instead, they draw from your battery. (Womp womp) Turning the A/C on will reduce range, but usually only by 5–10%, especially in modern EVs with efficient systems.
  • 2. Heat pumps help a LOT
    If your EV has a heat pump (like many Teslas, Hyundai Ioniq 5, or some VW ID.4 trims), it uses ambient air more efficiently. That means less battery drain to cool you down.
  • 3. Pre-conditioning is your friend
    You can cool the car while it’s plugged in so it doesn’t zap your range once you unplug. Use your app or scheduled departure feature when possible.
  • 4. EV batteries hate extreme heat
    High temps can accelerate long-term battery degradation — not instantly, but over time. Park in the shade, use a sunshade, and avoid deep fast charges if your battery is already scorching.
  • 5. Cabin temp doesn’t match engine temp
    Since EVs don’t have a traditional engine, heat buildup is more gradual. You might not feel it right away, but battery temps can spike during long drives or DC fast charging.

❄️ Pro Tip:

Cracking the window can help a little, but don’t suffer. Your comfort matters, and today’s EVs are designed to manage temperature efficiently. Just be mindful of your range if you’re far from a charger.

How EVs Differ From ICE/Hybrids in the Heat:

FeatureEVICE/Hybrid
Cabin A/C SourceBattery-poweredEngine heat + A/C compressor
Idle CoolingSilent, efficientRequires engine running
Pre-cooling while plugged inYes No or limited
Waste heat availabilityMinimalHigh (engine)
Battery heat sensitivityHighLower

Bottom line: Hot weather has SOME effect on EVs, but it’s totally manageable with a little awareness. Use your tech, precondition when you can, and stay cool — literally and figuratively.

Is It Bad to Always Use Fast Chargers for Your EV?

Here’s a question I hear a lot — and honestly, I asked it myself early on:

“Can I fast charge all the time? Will it ruin my battery?”

If you’re on the go a lot, or just don’t have a home charger set up yet, it’s tempting to rely on DC fast charging (like Electrify America, EVgo, etc.) as your main fuel source.

But there are some things you should know before making that your default.

⚡ Fast Charging: The Basics
Fast charging = DC charging (usually 150kW to 350kW)

Designed to charge your EV from ~10% to 80% in 20–40 minutes

Super convenient on road trips or in a pinch

🔧 So… Is It Bad for the Battery?
Not exactly — but it’s not ideal for daily use.

Most EV manufacturers (Volkswagen, Ford, Kia, etc.) say:

You can fast charge regularly, but for battery longevity, it’s better to use Level 2 charging (like a home charger) most of the time.

🧠 A Good Rule of Thumb:
Fast charge when you need to. Home charge when you can.

Here’s why:
-Charging Type Effect on Battery
-Fast Charging (DC) Generates more heat → gradual long-term battery wear if overused
-Level 2 Charging (240V) Slower, gentler, better for day-to-day use
-Level 1 Charging (120V) Slowest, but totally safe – not practical for full charges

✅ My Real-World Practice:
I fast charge when I’m on the road, or need a quick top-up, but:

At home, I plug into my Level 2 charger overnight

I avoid charging to 100% on fast chargers unless I really need it

If I know I’ll be sitting for a while, I’ll always choose slower charging to ease wear on the battery

🚫 What You Don’t Want to Do:
Use DC fast charging every single day — it adds up over time

Always charge to 100% on DC – topping off frequently at high power = heat + stress

Leave your EV parked at 100% state of charge for long periods

💡 Final Thought:
You don’t need to fear fast charging. But think of it like caffeine – great in a pinch, not something you want to live on 24/7.

Want your battery to last?
Use fast charging when you need it – but get set up for home charging.

Stuck Charger? Here’s How We Freed a Lyriq at Electrify America

Today I ended up helping a fellow EV driver at an Electrify America station — and it turned into a great reminder of how fast things can go sideways when tech meets real life.

The car? A 2025 Cadillac Lyriq.
Beautiful ride. But the charger? Stuck. Locked in place. Wouldn’t release.

She had already called support and was waiting on them to do… something. Meanwhile, it just sat there – the cord locked tight. I could see she was flustered, so I stepped in to help, along with another woman nearby.

After a few minutes of going through the basics, I remembered something I’d read (shoutout to ChatGPT for helping me think through it earlier): there’s an emergency release latch near the charging port.

Sure enough — we guided her to pull it, and it worked. Charger released, crisis averted.

💡 What Actually Happened?

It looked like a weird combination of a software bug and hardware lockout.
The car might have been idling-charging or in a weird post-charge state, and the cord locked up as a safety measure.
Classic EV moment: high tech meets low control.


What to Do If This Happens to You

Step 1: Don’t panic.
Take a breath. EVs are safety-first, so the system might just need a second to reset or finish communicating.

Step 2: Check the basics.

  • Is the car still actively charging?
  • Does the dash say “charging complete” or “ready to unplug”?
  • Is the cord locked visually, or just resisting?

Step 3: Try the official method first.

  • Use the vehicle’s unlock button or app
  • Wait 30–60 seconds after charging completes

Step 4: Call support (Electrify America, Tesla, etc.)

  • Start a ticket. But don’t wait forever – tech support can lag.

Step 5: Use the emergency release

  • Most EVs (including the Lyriq) have a manual latch or pull tab inside or near the charging port.
  • It might be behind a panel or rubber flap — check the manual or look it up on your phone.

Why Does My EV Slam on the Brakes in Reverse?

Ever had your EV slam on the brakes when you’re backing up — even though nothing is behind you?

It’s happened to me a few times in my Volkswagen ID.4, and it always catches me off guard. No beeping, no warning, just… stop. Like the car thinks it’s about to save someone’s life. Only problem is – there’s nothing there.

So what’s actually going on?

What Causes Sudden Stops in Reverse?

Here’s what I’ve found, both from experience and digging deeper:


1. Reverse Automatic Braking (AEB)
Most modern EVs – including the ID.4 – come with rear automatic emergency braking. It’s designed to stop the car if it thinks you’re about to back into something.

But the problem?
It doesn’t always see clearly.


2. Dirty Camera or Sensors
I personally think this is my main issue.
Dust, water spots, or even spiderwebs on your backup camera or ultrasonic sensors can make the system think there’s an obstacle, even when there isn’t.

💡 Here’s a tip: Try wiping your backup camera lens with a microfiber cloth. It makes a difference.


3. Sun Glare or Shadows
Bright sun behind you?
Deep shadows under your bumper?
Those can mess with how the car’s sensors or camera interpret the environment, especially if you’re in a garage or parking between two tall vehicles.


4. False Positives from Cross-Traffic Detection
Some trims use radar or wide-angle cameras to detect cross-traffic when reversing. It’s great for parking lots – but it can overreact if it picks up a leaf blowing or a person walking 20 feet away.


⚙️ What You Can Do:

  • ✅ Clean your backup camera and rear sensors
  • ✅ Test by turning off Reverse Brake Assist temporarily (check your settings)
  • ✅ Try reversing more slowly and listen for alerts before it brakes
  • ✅ Log when and where it happens — see if there’s a pattern

Final Thought:

I’m all for safety features — especially on a quiet EV. But sometimes, it feels like my car’s got a nervous ghost in the back seat.

Why I Started Truth About EVs

When I bought my first EV, I didn’t want hype – I wanted honesty.

I wanted to know how cold weather affects range.
I wanted to know if I could charge it while running errands.
I wanted to know if my tall frame would actually fit comfortably in it.

What I found was a mix of polished influencer content, outdated forum threads, and tech articles that didn’t reflect real life. Quite a few people with opinions including…”I would never drive an EV, and It won’t meet my needs because of X”
So, I decided to build what I couldn’t find:

A casual, no-pressure blog where a regular driver shares what it’s actually like to own and live with an EV.

I’m just a tall dude with questions, curiosity, and a real-world EV in my driveway.

Over time, I’ll post thoughts on:

  • Charging in the Midwest
  • Cold-weather range
  • Fitment (especially for tall folks like me)
  • Day-to-day EV life: the wins, the quirks, the honest stuff
    and more!

I call it “Truth About EVs” because it’s just that —
No hype, no hate. Just what’s true for me.

Thanks for stopping by. You’ll see more soon.

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